With any of these you need no extra equipment other than a second halyard.įor our trials we headed out into 45 knots of wind with Jo Mooring Aldridge on her Contessa 26, Sulali. These come in a variety of forms: jibs with built-in sleeves, separate sleeves that you attach to your existing hank-on jib, and two jibs sewn together at the luff to form a double-layer sail. The simplest and least expensive route on most boats is to have a jib that wraps around the furled genoa. So, assuming that you decide to buy one, what are your options? Whatever the arguments, however, the chances are that one day you’re going to have occasion to use a storm jib – even if it’s simply because your roller genoa has been damaged, you’ve got a rope around the prop and it’s the only upwind canvas you can set forward of the mast. Others just turn on the engine and motor-sail with a reefed mainsail, while the lucky ones or those who calculate carefully enough never find themselves in a position in which they have to make upwind against anything nasty. Some argue that in heavy weather you don’t want to go on deck anyway: it’s safer to stay in the cockpit. Plenty of coastal cruisers don’t have storm jibs, relying instead on rolling down the headsail. But how many of us do that and, just as critically, how many of us think seriously about what type of jib is the most practical to deploy and efficient to use? In this case the ‘file’ is probably at the bottom of the cockpit locker and reading the small print means rigging up the jib out at sea in a blow to see how it actually works. Like insurance policies, storm jibs tend to be ‘filed away’ before the small print is read. Storm jibs are often seen as an insurance policy: something you know you should have but hope you never have to use.
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